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Both the federal government and the state government are justifying the banning of incandescent lights and the argument is reasonably simple “incandescent lights are bad, bad, bad for the environment and anyone who uses them is evil”.

The NSW web site even goes on the show how much money you save by switching to a compact fluorescent or halogen light and at first sight it looks good.

But if it was so good, why didn’t people convert over without the government intervening? After all, if it drops the bill from $116 to $27 then surely we would all convert anyway.

The big joke is that the government almost had it right – lights are a big waste of energy, but they missed the real evil – down lights.

And I think it is because politicians are not engineers. I could go a step further and say that they are like a 10 watt bulb (not that bright) but I won’t.

People look at a down light and think “it’s only 12V so it must be OK” but we are talking about volts, not watts. Watts is how much juice it sucks, volts is how much a zap it will give you.

If it was a car, then watts would be your fuel consumption, and volts would be the number of cylinders in the engine. At the end of the day it is not the number of cylinders that determines how much it costs to run a car, but the fuel consumption. Not a perfect example, but hopefully you get the point.

So back to down lights. Even though they are 12v, they are typically 50 to 80 watts. But an incandescent light was typically 60 to 100 watts so it could be argued that they are worse. But one room used to require one (or two or three) incandescent light. So 100 watts would light up a room.

But walk into a modern house and it is lit up with not one, but a dozen down lights. In our kitchen/dining room there are 11 down lights. At 50 watts each, that’s 550 watts to light the room.

And the evils don’t stop there. Much of the light actually goes up into the ceiling. They can’t even get the direction right. And the heat. The ceiling insulation issues were largely due to down lights setting it on fire.

So why didn’t the government ban down lights?

But here we are, a couple of years down the line and what is happening in the market? Have we all converted to compact fluorescent lights? No way. And why? Here are my reasons:

  1. The quality of light is hopeless. They take time to warm up (some are better than others) and as they age, they get worse. So they may last 8,000 hours but within 1,000 hours you are ready to toss them.
  2. But they don’t last 8,000 hours. They blow too soon. Is this a result of poor quality electricity (with spikes and dips) or are they just not up to the task. Personally, I think they last just as long as incandescent lights.
  3. They are bad for the environment. They are loaded up with metal, plastic, mercury and other stuff (that’s a technical term for “I don’t know”). An incandescent light had glass and metal – both renewable resources and could be disposed off in a bin.
  4. They don’t fit in most of my standard light fittings. They were big and cumbersome. Now they are smaller, but more useless for light.

So there is an emerging alternative – the halogen globe. It looks like an incandescent light, works like and incandescent light, and gives the same quality light as an incandescent light, but with 30% less energy. It looks like a winner.

But it costs 10 times more, has more parts, and is saving a huge 30%.

But wait, in theory this is also meant to last longer. And so that’s why I started keeping the receipt for my lights and marking on the box when I installed them. Guess what – they blow within a month. Now if I leave my lights on 24 hours a day (which I don’t) then 24 x 30 = 720. They should be lasting a minimum of 3 months of continual use. If they are only on for 6 hours a day they should last a year. I am lucky to get 6 months out of them.

So now for the maths…

1 x 100 watt incandescent blowing every 500 hours for 8000 hours: $108 + $10 for new bulbs

11 x 50 watt down lights blowing every 500 hours for 8000 hours: $600-700

1 x 20 watt compact fluorescent blowing every 500 hours for 8000 hours: $22 + $80 for new bulbs + a head ache from poor light

1 x 65 watt quart halogen blowing every 500 hours for 8000 hours: $70 + 80 for new bulbs

And suddenly that incandescent bulb becomes the good guy.

AND DOWN LIGHTS ARE THE MOST EVIL, EVIL, EVIL LIGHT IN THE HOUSE.

That’s why I replaced all of mine with LED down lights. Now they have dropped from 50w to 9w and they do last a lot longer.

And what does this have to do with temperature loggers? Nothing. I just wanted to vent my frustration.

What is covered with our shipping insurance?

Our normal terms and conditions (like most businesses) is that you take possession the moment an order ships. If the order is lost or damaged in transit then, in theory, it’s your problem. In reality we will have a conversation and try to work out a good way to resolve the issue where we are both happy (or not too upset).

Shipping insurance is there to remove the drama. If an order is lost or damaged in transit, we will simply send out a replacement, and we will then deal with the courier directly to resolve the original problem.

Our shipping insurance also means that if an order is delayed beyond what is normal and reasonable then we will send you another shipment (stock levels permitting). Then you should receive one of them sooner, and when the second one arrives you simply Return To Sender.

How much is shipping insurance?

Shipping insurance is 5% of the cost of the goods.

Is it worth it? Practically we have had far less than 5% of shipments have problems. It is, however, what Australia Post and other couriers charge. Ultimately insurance is about peace of mind and less hassle when something does go wrong.

Shipping insurance as an option

Shipping insurance is offered as an option on all our web sites. You can select it at the checkout.

For large orders our staff may also ask if you would like shipping insurance.

If you would like shipping insurance on an order you are placing with us, just ask.

Mandatory shipping insurance

Unfortunately we have had a couple of large orders not make it and then the customer refused to pay. A friend suggested that the easy way to avoid the dispute is to insure any shipments where we have a significant risk.

If you would like an immediate line of credit (30 days to pay) and have the goods ship immediately (no credit check delays) and are purchasing over $500 then we will add shipping insurance to your order.

The shipping insurance can be waived if the order is between $500 and $2,000 and you provide us with a formal confirmation that you accept responsibility of the goods once they ship.

Alternatively you can prepay by direct deposit or credit card.

What is not covered?

If there is a clear proof of delivery to the shipping address provided then we class that as delivered. Unfortunately there are cases where it is lost somewhere between the loading dock or receptionist and ending up in your hands. But we also know that a photo of the bag against a generic grey background is not proof of delivery, it is just proof of existence! It needs to be a reasonable proof of delivery.

It also doesn’t cover the expectation of overnight delivery. For example, if we were to ship to Melbourne (we are in Sydney) then we would expect it to be delivered within about 3 days. Most of the time it is overnight, but there are enough floods and other issues that regularly cause minor delays. Sending a second order the next day tends to not fix the problem. If it is super urgent, talk to us about how we can minimise the risk.

For damage claims we ask that you contact us immediately and we will probably ask for photos or some proof. The shipping insurance doesn’t cover claims weeks later. We do have warranty covering our items, but it excludes physical damage (e.g. being dropped). If the goods are damaged in transit then please let us know ASAP so we can cover it under the shipping insurance.